Have you ever visited anywhere that made you feel a bit meh? Ushuaia definitely made us feel a bit flat. But we were never going to be here again and not everyone is lucky to have reached the end of the world so we slapped on smiles, gave ourselves a pep talk and promised to make the best of a disappointing place.

As I said here the main attractions are expensive but we found a fun way to spend an afternoon by doing a small hike to a glacier covered mountain. I don’t know why after this happened when we climbed a volcano but hey gluttons for punishments or whatevs.

We made our way to the top of the town where the mountain lies, wrapped up ready to stretch out legs and breathe in that healthy mountain air. There is a ski lift but it was broke so we hit the route that the sweet little guy in the information hut at the base of the trek had given us on a small map.

Now any hard-core hiker knows what you need is a solid walking pole or in our case a whacking great stick. We scrambled in the undergrowth for a suitable staff and hacked off the end so it was the right height now we were practically pros!

Then what do all seasoned hikers do with said stick? Use it as a light sabre of course ahem.

We stopped kidding around and hit the road, a dusty steep path crossing babbling brooks and wonky wobbling bridges. The wind bent trees bowed down to us as we pushed through to get to the mountain a stark white contrast against the blue sky.

On the way down we spotted an unused quad that we were hoping to jump start to get us down the route faster. But not wanting a brush with the law we continued on our little feet.

We warmed up with a tasty steak, our first Argentinian hunk of beef and it did not disappoint, in a tiny Irish bar in the town as well as get in the festive mood. It may not feel that Christmassy over here but the ice cold winds certainly give us a little taste of home!

This burst of activity that started with mountain biking didn’t disappear overnight. I don’t know if it is the clear mountain air or restlessness in our limbs but we decided to tackle the next challenge. One that took me right out of my comfort zone I could hardly see myself. We foolishly decided to climb a volcano. Yep this one poking out of the clouds.

The rock star of this pretty sleepy town, Volcano Villaricca, stands proudly against the deep blue sky, its glacier covered sides gleaming out at us. A guy in the hostel had told us that it was a highlight of his trip and wasn’t too difficult a trek. It’s 2868 metres high and one of Chile’s most active volcano’s, although the last eruption was back in the 1970’s, gave me little comfort.

Having hiked round the Himalayas and surprising myself at my hidden level of fitness we decided to take his word for it. If I could find him now I would have laughed at his ‘joke’. Even the word itself, volcano, says no! But we didn’t know what lay ahead as we packed up a packed lunch, put our warmest clothes on, were handed a bursting backpack full of crampons, helmets and an ice pick at 6am still under the illusion that this would be a walk in the park. I guess the glinting ice pick should have given the game away but we were picked up with other intrepid explorers looking as sleepy as us and trundled in a minibus up to the meeting point.

We had two guides with our group of 10 people who made sure we were prepped, warm and had enough water to get us through the climb. We had the choice to take a ski lift which meant shaving an hour off the journey and saving our energy. Having never been skiing I was giddy with excitement to get on the rickety rather unsafe looking metal chair that wobbled precariously up the side of the snow covered volcano. High winds, cloud cover, avalanches and the threat of the volcano itself can all cause hikes to be cancelled at any time along the route and that if were were to get to the top and back we would be lucky as lots of groups don’t get this experience. Pah lucky!

Our guide then showed us how to use the ominous looking ice pick in a swift manoeuvre to grip onto the edge of the ice if we fell. Oh sweet Jesus. He said we had to follow the person in front in a wandering line stepping in their footprints as a path. We were to zig zag our way up the steep side using the pick to steady ourselves and for those not too keen on heights it was better not to look down. When someone tells you that you instantly look down and what I saw made me nearly pee myself. A practically vertical drop of blinding bright snow with nothing to hang onto just you and the ice pick, my newest best friend.

Forcing myself to man up even though the rest of the group looked like pros, all muscular calves and weathered faces, we started our hike to the top. Rest stops were for five minutes after 45 minutes of stepping into large footprint steps. With nowhere to sit we had to dig out a bum shaped hole and rest there gulping down water and clinging onto our bags in case they fell down the side.

We climbed higher than the clouds watching the town slip away in a green haze. After 5 hours of crunching, stepping, sweating and huffing we made it to the top. Wanting to celebrate this achievement but it was so cold, the wind slapping our stinging red faces and the sulphurous smell from the volcano that made me gag and think of burnt chicken flavoured pot noodles that we had a few pics and got ready to go back down.

This would much easier and quicker the guide said as he strapped on a thick nylon nappy thing to our thighs. We would be sliding down on our bums. Using the ice pick as a brake we had to sit on the cold snow and push ourselves to the edge of the never ending drop and slide down to the bottom, taking about an hour. Oh god.

Greg sped off his adrenalin pumping and expected me to follow but I froze. All I could see was a white death trap and as I started to whizz down I freaked out at how fast I was going and forced my pick to the side gripping on to slow myself down. The guide saw how panicked I was that I didn’t have any control at my speed and kindly urged me to cling onto the backpack of another guide who would gently ease our way down. Although he lost control and we ended up spinning to the side then flipped backwards and hurtled down as snow filled my mouth, down my top and I screamed for help! We only came to a stop toppling into a couple who had stopped for a breather. I was crying, furious and desperate to be back on the ground. But knowing the only way was to continue, although facing the right way, I sucked up my fear and pushed on alone not caring how fast I went just wanting it to be over.

At a slower, gradual pace I actually found myself enjoying the ride and when I got to the bottom and stumbled around trying to kick the slush and ice from myself I found Greg at the bottom. His face lit up saying in a thrilled voice ‘that was brilliant!!’ Well at least one of us got our adrenalin kick!

My legs wobbled like after a great work out, my arms had deep purple bruises on them from being bashed about and our faces were burnt from underestimating the power of the sun but we had done it. That feeling of achievement was so warm and fuzzy that I guessed this is why most dare devils keep searching for the next fix. As we had a cold beer in the sun looking up at the volcano we had reached the top of and made it down alive (ok I may be going a little too over the top here but this is what it felt like!) I was pleased we had stuck it out but trust me when I say never again!

Up early and back walking for a few more hours until we make it to the highest point of our journey – 3000 metres high with breath-taking views of the Himalayas. I get teary at all the other trekkers gathered at the top hugging and taking photos. I feel so proud of myself and just in awe of my surroundings. Being with nature on this scale really does put things into perspective.

Beautiful Nepalese bunting hangs from every tree and the atmosphere is fantastic, everyone really feels the same sense of satisfaction that I do.

However what comes up must come down so after a short rest we prepare to start our descent.
This takes us back down the mountains, through jungles with waterfalls, monkeys overhead and even more donkeys. But the weather is not on our side and the sound of thunder rumbles through the trees. Not the best place to be stranded during a thunderstorm surrounded by all these trees!

Pushing on with as much speed that my weary legs can muster we arrive at our lodgings which is a huge house owned by a Nepalese family who have three boisterous children to entertain us with dances and ball games.

I am so pleased I decided to do this trek not just because my waistline has shrunk slightly but because I have had the time and space to get things sorted in my head. Today is the last day and I will really miss my time with Deepak who has been not just a great trek guide, motivating me and explaining Nepalese quirks and culture to me, but also a fun friend to be with.

I have met so many people from different nationalities including Austrian, Russian, Chinese, American, Australian and English and it has been great that no matter where you are from we have all had the same aim to push ourselves and get to the end!

I have never been one for nature either – don’t get me wrong I can appreciate it but I would much rather be sat inside cozied up with a good book than discovering muscles I didn’t know existed in the bracing outdoors. But this has been an eye opener not just because I am surrounded by the fricking Himalayas but all the noises and smells that come with that. The sound of cow bells clanging, making way for donkeys stumbling past, seeing huge eagles soaring overhead whilst having some lunch perched on a rock face and walking through dancing butterflies has been incredible.

Walking downhill has actually been harder than I imagined. My thighs were shaking and my ankles felt unsteady after the mega workout my body has just had.

But we make it! After signing our paperwork to say we have completed it and having a spot of lunch in the sun we are on our way back to Pohkera.


We say our goodbyes as Deepak is heading back to Kathmandu and I am waiting to meet up with Rach to spend some time with her here. I literally fall into my room and all I can manage is to call room service and get a hot shower. What I would do for a leg rub and a bath!

After a dreamless sleep and an early breakfast we are off to tackle the next day. My legs are aching and Deepak promises that those 3000 steps were probably the hardest part in this trek. I’m not sure I believe him.


Today is New Year’s Day for the Nepalese; they have a very unusual calendar that they follow so for them today marks the first day in the year 2070, they even have different days in the month. On this day it is tradition for the women in the villages to make a pilgrimage up the mountain to sacrifice a yak and drink its blood which they believe has healing properties. We walk past groups of women, with babies strapped to their backs on route for this unconventional New Year’s Day activity. Usually I am hung over and working out which resolutions I have already broken.

It is colder today and the mountains are all covered in an ominous mist. I am actually really enjoying myself, being at one with nature and having the space to breathe and think as well as seeing how far I can push my body, with the minimum of moaning.

One of the many sights on our journey are porters who seem to be like incredible hulks, their job is to assist with groups that are taking on longer treks by carrying their heavy bags full of mountaineering equipment. You also see these skinny guys and girls with planks of wood strapped to their back or baskets full of food attached to their heads. As there are no roads for cars to transport things the next best thing is people or donkeys!

All this trekking works up an appetite and the dish that everyone seems to eat is called dal bhat. It is homemade vegetable curry, boiled rice, small bowl of lentil soup and a poppadom. It tastes amazing and is a great energy booster. After the chicken incident the other night I am glad to be going veggie for this trip.



We are an hour away from the village we are staying in tonight when the rain starts. It gets really chilly, the wind whips up and bit fat drops of rain falls around us. Even with aching legs I can still get them to go faster than I thought to get into the warm!


I definitely didn’t pack the right clothes and am cursing Deepak for not making me buy thermals. Luckily there is a tiny shop selling handmade Nepalese mittens and stylish hats. I don’t even care what I look like and snap them up, I even end up sleeping in them as it is so cold.


We are now 2860m high and the air does feel a lot thinner here. I get a bit woozy so warm up by a huge fire sat round chatting to other trekkers. Another trek guide comes round with a glass for everyone filled with their local tipple. It is homebrewed rice wine called Rhoksi that at 20% it blows your hiking socks off. After a warm dinner and a few glasses of this potent liquid I head to bed. It is 8pm!