You can’t go to Australia and not learn how to surf. It’s a rite of passage down under to hit the waves and tick this off your travel bucket list. So, obviously I had to give it a go!
Although since then I now have a new level of respect for surfer babes who ride the waves whilst rocking a glowing tan and pearly white smile. I had visions of catching a gnarly rip (yup, I have no idea) with my beachy hair flowing in the breeze, effortlessly pushing myself up to stand and catch each break. The reality was a little different. I ended up with mascara gloop round my eyes, a gallon of salt water up my nose and being shown up by a four year old Aussie kid who was doing crazy tricks nearby. Nice one, show off. Surfing is not as easy as it looks in the films but there is something addictive about it.
Luckily we had Kingo, a local surf instructor who was probably born under the sea judging by how confident and knowledgeable he was. Exactly the type of person you wanted to lead you into shark infested waters. Ok, there weren’t any sharks but there could have been, this is Australia after all!
First up we had to get into a wetsuit that shows EVERY lump and bump. Not to mention the fact my friend Laura and I had our surfing lesson in winter and in Adelaide where it was so cold we wore two wetsuits. Yep. Two! Check out the vid I’ve added to my Facebook page showing me struggling slipping into the tight neoprene.
After squeezing in and accepting the fact breathing was overrated, we picked up a board and wandered down to the empty beach. I was so glad there weren’t crowds of people as we didn’t need any distractions. Under a stunning low sky we tried to master the art of going from lying flat on our boards to jumping upright and balancing with our feet planted in the correct position, pretty easy on the comforting solid surface of wet sand - not so easy on the moving chilly waves.
But, we persevered and soon were wading in and wincing at the water slapping our thighs that even with two frigging wetsuits on you could still feel the chill.
‘Okay, Katy, the next one you’re going to get!’ Kingo encouragingly shouted from behind, helping me to steer my board in preparation for the swell that was building.
‘Go, Go, Go!’ His chilled-out tones sped up as he shouted over the splashing waves.
Balls. Here we go. I was going to surf.
Half on my board I paddled and kicked my little legs until I felt the board lift as I hit the crest. I pulled myself up, got to my knees and then tentatively hopped up to my feet hoping I was doing it right. Apparently, and much to my amazement, I was! I was only bloody surfing!
And then I fell off.
But for those ten seconds I was stood up, body crouched, arms outstretched, the biggest grin on my face and actually surfing. It was incredible and as soon I’d spat out the salty water, picked off soggy seaweed and rubbed the sand from my face I was desperate to do it all over again.
If you’ve never given it a go I would urge you to squeeze into a wet-suit and hit the waves. You will not regret it!
Here are my tips for surfing novices:
- Go with a tour guide but try and get the smallest sized group or even a private lesson if you can. This should mean you will be taken to a beach with calmer waves and given more attention to help you learn. You will need all the encouragement you can get to push you to face your fears.
- Start with a foam board. They are lighter and more aerodynamic.
- Stretch! I was aching the next day as if I’d been pumping iron at the gym all day. Make sure to warm up and cool down to avoid muscle strain.
- You will fall off but remember that wipeouts are all part of the game!
*Pro as in able to stand up for a few seconds… Hey, I’m still learning over here!
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