Both cost and comfort were the major factors in deciding not to do the famous Inca trail where you trek for 3 or 4 days following the original path through rocky terrains, high altitude and steep steps to get to Machu Picchu. The more I have travelled the more I am open to slumming it but when we were faced with over £600 cost each to have this experience of freezing nights in a tent and toilets that make the Glastonbury portaloos look luxurious we opted against it.
Instead we hunted around Cusco for the best price to get us to see the iconic Inca ruins the *ahem* lazy way. This meant an early start to catch the bus to a small town called Ollayantaytambo (try saying that drunk!) and then catching a train which drove through Jurassic Park-esque scenery to arrive at Aguas Caliente, the closest town to Machu Picchu.
Literally translated as Hot Waters this town is not only famous for its neighbour Machu Picchu but being the stopover for those who have completed the trek or are waiting until the early morning to get to the ruins. It is seemingly created for tourists with hundreds of similar restaurants toppled around a gushing river, large indoor market selling everything from llama blankets to flashy cameras, and touts desperate to entice you into their bars with happy hour offers practically 24/7.
What this playmobile town also boasts is a natural hot springs where large outdoor pools are heated with the warm flowing hillside water. Us, Valentina and Desiree (two lovely girls we met at the school from Italy and Holland) jumped at the chance to get warmed up for the first time since arriving in Peru and were soon squelching up the narrow streets in the drizzling rain to get there. Costing just 10 soles (£2.50) each we quickly changed into our cozzies and shivered down to the pool area where greeny murky waters awaited us. Ok so it may not be luxury and it did smell slightly of an aquarium but once in the waters our shoulders relaxed and we were surrounded by jawdroppingly gorgeous views that far made up for the hygiene levels.
It was the coolest/weirdest sensation of shrivelling up like a prune due to the warmth but your head getting cold raindrops at the same time! If you had been brave enough to complete the trek then this would feel like paradise for your sore muscles and I definitely recommend it. Sitting back with a cold beer, finally feeling warm and relaxed and staring up at misty mountain peaks while hearing exotic bird song is something I will never forget.
Coming next week: Machu Picchu. Happy Halloween and have a great weekend!
